Nuts and bolts (and a summary)

Beware! This is going to be image-heavy.  I promised to give a step-by-step of how I put the dress together, so here it is.

1. Cut out standard pattern pieces from original pattern

2. Make cotton muslin:

 

Pinched out excess in seams until happy with shape.  Tried new neckline on self

2. Transfer back to pattern pieces (photocopied and pieced together to allow multiple alterations)

I usually pin the (deconstructed) pieces from the muslin back onto the original pattern, pin through the new seam lines I took in and draw along the pin lines on the OPPOSITE side of the pattern.  Then I measure and redraw the cutting line (IE add 1.5cm) to give the new pattern piece.  Please let me know if a tutorial would be helpful!

3. Cut out lining with new pattern to check fit again

4. Finished edges of lining with bias (probably wouldn't do this again - would pink edges or fold under and stitch).  This was way too bulky for my zip area in particular:

 5.  Assembled lining pieces to make mock dress

6. Sewed up twill tape to form channels for boning

 7. Sew edges of boning to seams of lining shell - from right side of lining (which is showing on the OUTSIDE on the dress form above) you should see three seam lines - one seam and one each for the boning channels.  I made this up as I went along - in future I would use this tutorial by Gertie to simplify the process as the twill plus the boning was really quite bulky and did show a little through the dress.

8.  Sew zip into lining - I used an invisible zip, so did not attach the lining right next to the teeth - otherwise there would be a lot of bulk and it would make it difficult to attach the silk on top.

9.  Double check fit!  Although I used the dress form to hang the dress and so on, I didn't rely on it for the actual fit.

10.  Figure out train - I should have done this at the muslin stage but I didn't!
Here's how I did it:

The front pieces will also need to slope diagonally to meet the longer edges of the back.
 I hope that makes some sort of sense?

On the left, I have added the extra fabric to give the right sort of shape - then on the right I have rounded it off.  Please note the dress form is raised up so the train doesn't sit on the floor on the right so it looks like the length has been lost.

11.  Make up silk shell - see here.

12. Make straps (if using - my dress stayed in place without straps but I wanted them to prevent strain on the lace)

13. Attach to lining securely - I sewed a rectangle over about an inch of the strap that lay over the lining.  They will need to be placed upside down - so that the short end of the strap lies in the seam allowance.  I will post a diagram if needs be - just ask!

14.  Join silk shell to lining right sides together, stitching all along neckline (I needed to clip around the sweetheart neckline to get it to sit right).  I also trimmed and graded the fabrics - a bit TOO much, as this appeared not long after:

Silk escapage! Luckily its at the underarm so wasn't too noticeable.  I never said it was perfect!

This sandwiches the strap in place so that the ends are not visible inside or out.

15.  Hand pick silk fabric to zip tape.

16. Fun details! I made tiny silk straps by folding a strip of silk in half longways, then folding each raw edge to this centre fold before folding along the centre - like making bias binding.  I topstitched close to the edge to seal it all together.

I wanted a button loop for the top of the zip to emulate a classic dress closure - like those dresses that do up with a long line of pearly buttons all along the back.  I have also seen dresses where the train has a loop that allows the wearer to pull the train up out of the way - by draping the loop over the wrist like this:

 Mine was not long or drapey enough for that, so I placed a button at the centre back, about 20cm down from the bum, and inserted a loop at the lower edge of the zip - so that when the button is done up, the train is pulled slightly up and across.  The longest edge of the train sits in a fold along my left side as a result.  These are the little loops:

The buttons were 6mm self-fabric covered, probably from the haberdashery at John Lewis.

17. Scaffolding!  I used a chunky blue tulle and a lighter ivory tulle.  I gathered the tops of them with a long machine stitch, then sandwiched the top edge between a strip of fabric:

I then attached a narrow strip of the chunky blue to the lower back of the lining, where the train starts to get full (I basically fiddled with the placement with pins until I was happy).  On top, I zigzagged the lighter tulle - to cover up the colour and bulk of the blue and give a softer outline under the silk.  The white tulle continues around the front of the dress at hip level, just in a single layer, to give a little volume there.

The blue extends beyond the length of the lining, to support the train at the back.






18.  Waist stay - I cut a piece of bright yellow petersham and attached heavy duty bra closure at each end.  I used this method.  With this in place, I can wear the dress without straps, jump up and down ten times and it stays put!  I  ensured the stay was attached close to the lower ends of the boning so that the structure of the bodice can "rest" on the stay - to keep everything staying up!  If I made this as a strapless dress, I would tighten the bodice right up - the danger of a bodice that stays up is that when you move, the top of the boning doesn't.  So there is a small risk of exposure if the bodice can sit away from the chest :s

It's certainly snug!

19. Handstitch the lace on (I've covered this in some detail already so will not bore you with a repetition).

20.  Hem! I did the whole lot by hand.  Wow that took a long time.  I sat at the table behind my fiance so we could watch TV together but he wouldn't see!

It's all wrinkly as it needs a good press after the big day :)















I think that's everything?  Please comment if you want a specific post on how I did any of these steps.  I'm sorry I never took the pictures as I went along!

Next up - the finished dress!